The gateway to Sleeping Bear Dunes, explained by the people who live here
Every summer, millions of visitors drive into Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, and a remarkable number of them pass straight through Empire without realizing they have arrived at the park’s front porch. This little village of a few hundred year-round residents sits at the geographic center of the lakeshore, closer to the famous attractions than anywhere else you can sleep. Here is the complete guide to Empire: how to get here, what to do, where to eat, and where to stay.
Where Empire is, and why it is the park’s gateway town
Empire sits on the Lake Michigan shore of the Leelanau Peninsula, about 25 miles west of Traverse City, at the junction of M-72 and M-22. The national lakeshore wraps around it: the Empire Bluffs rise south of the beach, the Dune Climb is five minutes north on M-109, and the Philip A. Hart Visitor Center, the park’s headquarters, is right in the village. When the park rangers want lunch, they walk to Front Street. That is how central Empire is.
The village itself is pure northern Michigan: one main street, a wide public beach, a museum, a couple of beloved restaurants, and a pace that still follows the seasons. If you are picturing a resort strip, adjust: Empire is the quiet alternative, and that is exactly why regulars love it.
Getting to Empire, Michigan
Most visitors arrive via Traverse City, home to Cherry Capital Airport (TVC) with year-round flights from Detroit, Chicago, Minneapolis, and seasonally from several other hubs. From the airport or downtown Traverse City, Empire is about a 40-minute drive: west on M-72 through some of the prettiest farmland in the county, straight into the village. From the south (Muskegon, Grand Rapids, Chicago), M-22 is the scenic choice, threading the Lake Michigan shoreline through Frankfort and the Benzie County bluffs. Inside the park, M-109 connects Empire to the Dune Climb, Glen Haven, and Glen Arbor in minutes.
Things to do in and around Empire
The headline acts are the park’s: the Dune Climb, the Empire Bluff Trail, and Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive, plus twenty paved miles of the Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail. In the village itself: Empire Beach, the Empire Area Museum, and Front Street’s shops. Our full list is in the 15 best things to do in Empire. Day trips reach Glen Arbor (10 minutes), Leland’s Fishtown (about 25), and Point Betsie Lighthouse (about 25).
Where to eat in Empire
Joe’s Friendly Tavern and the Empire Village Inn (famous pizza, deep draft list) anchor Front Street, with Grocer’s Daughter Chocolate, the Shipwreck Cafe, and the Little Finger Eatery covering coffee, breakfast, and picnic supplies. Glen Arbor adds more tables ten minutes north. The full rundown, with off-season notes, is in our Empire restaurant guide.
Where to stay in Empire
Lodging in the village ranges from campgrounds and cottages to a handful of small inns. The Dune Climb Inn sits on M-109 on the Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail, minutes from the Dune Climb in one direction and the beach in the other. Choose from kitchenette studios like the dune-view Back Door Studio (sleeps two adults and two children) or the family-ready Two-Bedroom Suite with a full kitchen and back patio grill. See all rooms and suites and our honest guide to where to stay near Sleeping Bear Dunes.
Empire by season
Summer is beach season: book well ahead for July and August weekends. Fall is the locals’ favorite, with peak color the first half of October and lighter crowds; see the fall color guide. Winter is for snowshoeing the Dune Climb and groomed skiing on the Heritage Trail, covered in our winter guide. Spring brings wildflowers, migrating birds, and the year’s lowest rates before Memorial Day.
Questions about planning? Call us at (231) 631-7875 or email manager@duneclimbinn.com. We answer these every day.
Empire, Michigan FAQ
Empire is known as the gateway to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. The village sits at the park’s geographic center, minutes from the Dune Climb, the Empire Bluff Trail, and Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive, with a public Lake Michigan beach and the park’s visitor center right in town.
About 25 miles, or roughly 40 minutes by car via M-72 West. Cherry Capital Airport in Traverse City is the closest commercial airport to Empire.
It is the closest base. The Dune Climb is five minutes from the village, the Empire Bluff Trail trailhead is just south of town, and the Sleeping Bear Heritage Trail runs through the area. Staying in Empire means more park time and less driving than basing in Glen Arbor or Traverse City.
Empire is in Leelanau County, in the northwest corner of Michigan’s Lower Peninsula, on the shore of Lake Michigan.
